Alan Phillip (Big Al) Thompson's
Bicentennial Bicycle Retrace of
The Lewis and Clark Trail
from Saint Louis, Missouri, on 06/22/2005
to Astoria and Seaside, Oregon, ~09/01/2005

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Bicycle Road Trip Report 1 of 10, 06/29/2005,
Atchison, Kansas

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Dear Family and Friends,

      This is my first report from The Lewis and Clark Trail. I'm writing you from Atchison, Kansas, birthplace of Amelia Earhart, having just completed my ride across Missouri.

      "I'm going to ride The Lewis and Clark Trail." Those words roll so easily off the tongue — especially when spoken months before departure when surrounded by the comforts of home. But reality slams right "upside" your helmet as you hit those first hills (and Missouri has a whole lot of them) and the temperature inches ever closer to the 100-degree Fahrenheit mark.

      It's been 20 years since my journey around the world, and I had forgotten (well, not totally) how physically demanding a long ride such as this can be — especially with about 45 pounds of gear attached to my bicycle in one manner or another. But each day has its rewards — a great downhil, an unexpected tailwind (like I had this morning), wonderful vistas, an interesting person who crosses your path, and the last couple of nights, two fellow cyclists with whom to share the campground. They are a pair of lady cyclists who are also riding The Trail. Ironically, I had communicated with one of them by email a few months ago and knew we might meet up along the way. Short racoon story: we had a racoon invasion two nights ago — three sets of glowing and beady eyes peering into the beam of my flashlight in the middle of the night. When one of the girls went to the showers early yesterday morning, one of the racoons unzipped her tent, went in and unzipped her bicycle pack to get at the food inside. It was a very polite racoon, for it could have easily torn right through the tent and pack.

      My mileages have not been great so far — averaging about 50 miles per day it seems, and am closing in on the 400-mile mark. By 1:00 P.M. the heat and humidity are intense, and I want nothing more than to seek shelter in some cool place.

      The first 150 miles on Missouri's Katy Trail were great, and flat! The Katy Trail is one of the nation's longest rail trails (225 miles) extending all the way across Missouri, and much of it following the course of the Missouri River, "the Big Muddy," and the route of Lewis and Clark's Corps of Discovery. The Katy Trail features many interpretive signs and markers pinpointing the actual sites where the Expedition camped. I could easily imagine the Corps of Discovery struggling mightily against the powerful current of the Big Muddy as they rowed, pulled, poled — but rarely sailed — their 55-foot long keelboat upriver. What an amazing group of men they must have been — what stamina, fortitude, and undaunted courage! Not ignoring Sacagawea, because those words apply to her in full measure as well — she was not with them on this part of the river. So many wonderful stories about this amazing young women. I will meet up with her in North Dakota.

      When I think of this solo journey — 20 years on from that other solo journey [around the world], it is rather overwhelming. Each day I tell myself — "Just one day at a time." In addition to my interest in one of the greatest exploratory missions in history, all the sponsors who have pledged pennies per mile have been a great incentive to keep my wheels turning. And I have been signing up sponsors along the way. Although I don't want people to give me monetary donations (just pledges), the other day I found a $20 bill stuck under one of my bungee cords. As tempted as I was to drop in on the next tavern and pour about four beers down my parched throat, I put it in a safe place to add to the pledge money that will go to the three worthy causes. As I ride I have in front of me on a card the names of a number of special people who have been fighting or have fought the good fight against Alzheimer's or Cancer. If any of you know of people who would still like to pledge, just email me and I will add their names to the list the next time I check in.

      Well all, hope I haven't bent your ear (make that eye) too much. As Lewis and Clark often began their journal entries: tomorrow I will "arise early and proceed on."

      My best to you all,

      — Al Thompson

P. S. Those of you who have lists, could you please forward this message to those who might be interested.