Alan Philip (Big Al) Thompson's
Bicentennial Bicycle Retrace of
The Lewis and Clark Trail
from Saint Louis, Missouri, 06/22/2005
to Astoria and Seaside, Oregon, 09/03/2005

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Bicycle Road Trip Report 10 of 10, 09/05/2005

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(sic) "Ocian in view!   O! the joy ... Great joy in camp. We are in View of the Ocian, this great Pacific Ocian which we been so long anxious to see. And the roreing ... made by the waves brakeing on the rockey shores (as I Suppose) may be hear distictly." (sic)

William Clark – November 7, 1805

Hello, Family and Friends,

Can you imagine the feelings of Lewis' and Clark’s Corps of Discovery as they finally reached their long sought-after goal — to gaze upon the great Pacific Ocean after traveling four thousand one hundred and forty-two miles. Their unrelenting struggle against the powerful currents of the Missouri River, their treacherous and starvation haunted crossing of the Bitterroot Mountains, and their sometimes wild ride down the Clearwater, Snake, and mighty Columbia Rivers had finally paid off. They had made it — they were finally there.

Just as I have finally made it, and am gazing now upon this great Pacific Ocean here at Seaside, Oregon (17 miles south of Astoria) after pedaling 3,773 miles.

The Corps’ journey on these Western rivers was vastly different than their slow march up the Missouri. Now they were traveling with the current, and the rivers descending from the continental divide on the western side travel a much shorter distance to reach the sea than the 4,243-mile-long Missouri. The rivers are wild and swift with sometimes unrunnable rapids. The Corps of Discovery, anxious to reach their goal, threw caution to the wind, rolled the dice, and decided to run them anyhow. Indians of the region would perch upon the rocks above the swirling waters to watch the explorers shoot the dangerous cascades, and were amazed when they made it through safely, for the most part.

As the Corps proceeded on down the broad and powerful Columbia River, they took note that the tides were actually beginning to affect the river, even though they were still over 100 miles from the sea — a sure sign they were getting close.

When William Clark wrote those famous lines on November 7, 1805 ("Ocian in view" {sic}), he was not actually seeing the Pacific Ocean yet — it was the broad estuary of the Columbia. It would be another couple of weeks before they would truly make it to the coast. They were forced to huddle along the banks of the great river and wait out the raging storms sweeping in from the Pacific.

When they finally did make it to the coast, there was no Holiday Inn to check into. They would have to build their fort, just as they had done the previous winter at the Mandan Villages. They would call it Fort Clatsop after the local Clatsop Indians. When it came time to choose a location for the fort, democracy stepped to the fore — remarkable since this was a military expedition. This says much about the two Captains, Meriwether and William, and their leadership. That they let the men vote on the site of the fort is just one example of the mutual respect the Captains and the men of the Corps had for each other. This "band of brothers" (and one sister and a baby) had been molded into what Lewis referred to as "the best of families." And even more amazing — they let York, Clark’s African-American slave and personal servant, and Sacagawea have an equal vote — the first African-American and Native-American to vote in U. S. history.

My own journey down the Columbia has been an experience. The wind, the wind, the wind! Any puff of air that aspires to be a big breeze finds its way into the Columbia Gorge which acts like a huge funnel, whipping those air currents into a frenzied headwind for west-bound cyclists. As I strained to make 5, 6, or 7 mph, I tried to keep in mind the incredible struggles of the Corps and how they always proceeded on no matter what the obstacle.

My reward these last few days of the trip has been a lessening of the winds and some of the most beautiful scenery to be found anywhere in the world — the Columbia River Gorge Historic Scenic Highway. It was constructed between 1913 and 1922 at the dawn of the motoring age and was the first paved scenic road in the Northwest. And what vistas to be seen — waterfalls cascading hundreds of feet off high ridges that tower over the gorge! It’s hard to capture it in words — hard to capture it in pictures. You just have to see it for yourself.

It was nice also to meet up with my lady cycling buddies — Polly, Chris, and Michelle. Theresa had to leave the group early to return home to Baltimore. I had lost track of them for a week or so, and we just happened into each other once again on this beautiful roadway, not too far from the spectacular Multanomah Falls. We camped one final time together; I bought a bottle of wine, and we toasted our trip and the Corps of Discovery.

Speaking of which, the Corps' winter at Fort Clatsop was long, wet, and miserable. During their soggy sojourn at the mouth of the Columbia, there were only 12 days when it didn’t rain and only six days when the sun shone down upon them. Their return journey was much swifter, of course, fueled by the desire for home and hearth. Wanting to explore different territory and routes on their return, the Corps actually split up into at first four, and then two, widely separated groups — a very risky move on the part of Meriwether and William. They were actually separated for over a month, but amazingly met up again as planned at the confluence of the Yellowstone and Missoui Rivers. Lewis was a little worse for wear when they finally reunited, having been shot by accident in the butt by one-eyed Pierre Cruzatte who mistook Lewis for an elk while out hunting. Lewis at first thought they were under attack, but eventually determined that Pierre was the culprit. No hard feelings or discipline though — just a sore rear end and a ride in the bottom of the canoe on his stomach.

And so they proceeded on down the Missouri River, united again. Saying goodbye to Sacagawea and Charbonneau at the Mandan Villages, they raced down the Missouri River, knocking off 70 miles a day (compared to 14 to 20 on the way up), arriving in Saint Louis on September 23, 1806, eight thousand miles and two years, four months, and nine days from when they had set forth.

And, just as the Corps of Discovery was anxious to return home, I am as well — ready to return home to family, friends, and my own bed! Thank you all for your support and emails and to all my sponsors who have pledged pennies per mile. I'll be in touch regarding the pledges.

Lewis wrote of the White Cliffs of the Missouri, " ... as we passed on it seemed as if those scenes of visionary enchantment would never have an end." On my journey I've had the privilege of gazing upon many of those scenes of visionary enchantment that define the Lewis and Clark Trail through the strikingly beautiful and dramatic western reaches of our country. And I marvel at the determination, stamina, and undaunted courage of Meriwether Lewis and William Clark and their Corps of Discovery.

On September 23, 1806, the day they pulled into view of Saint Louis and its amazed and cheering citizens who lined the banks, Sergeant John Ordway wrote, (sic) " ... about 12 oClock we arived in Site of St Louis fired three Rounds as we approached the Town and landed oppocit the center of the Town, the people gathred on the Shore and Huzzahed three cheers. we unloaded the canoes and carried the baggage all up to a store house in Town drew out the canoes then the party all considerable much rejoiced that we have the Expedition Completed and now we look for boarding in Town and wait for our Settlement and then we entend to return to our native homes to See our parents once more as we have been so long from them." (sic)

As always, I am proceeding on, but this time to my home!

— Al Thompson

P.S.   Those of you with lists, please pass on for the last time to those who might be interested. Thanks much!

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